Monday, October 24, 2016

The New Normal - Fall Break Part 2, Tarifa, Spain


View of Tangier from Ferry

Our day trip to Tarifa, Spain, was so pleasant.  We left Tangier and took the one-hour ferry boat ride to the southern-most tip of Spain. Tarifa is located on the "Coast of Light"; the Strait of Gibraltar, where the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet.  We loved being on the water and seeing the beautiful scenery on the way.  The ferry was fast, with a top speed of 32-miles per hour. Unfortunately, this stretch of sea has claimed the lives of many African immigrants trying to sail across to Spain on makeshift rafts which are overloaded.


Ferry from Tangier, Morocco to Tarifa, Spain
View of Tangier from the ferry
View of Tarifa from ferry 

Jesus Christus statue at the port entrance to Tarifa

The beaches are white sand with blue water shores, with stunning views of the mountains.  Since our trip was during the off-season, there were very few people around and we enjoyed a quiet day. There were a few people enjoying the sun, flying kites and wind and kite surfing.  The town has unique wind conditions and is known for wind sports.  The area is also dotted with wind turbines which produce electricity.


Tarifa Beach with mountain view
Tarifa Beach with mountain view
Judy walking the beach
The old town of Tarifa is steeped in Moorish history.  It is small and clean, with white houses on short streets and pretty squares.  It did my heart good to see many dogs on leashes being doted on by their owners.  (This is not a part of the culture in Morocco, and I miss it.)


Pretty white buildings










Iglesia de San Francisco De Asis Church
One of the main sites is the Castillo de Guzman el Bueno, or Castle of Tarifa, built in 960.  The outside was plainly visible as we ferried into port.  Walking up to the top allowed us a beautiful view of the harbor and mountains.  We also got a real feel for the history of the city as we walked around the refurbished interior which was museum-like.  


Up at the top
Judy taking a break on some cannon balls
Knight Richard
Castle exterior
Other ruins near the bay, are surrounded by water on three sides, and not accessible to visitors.  





We had a beautiful day in Tarifa, and so ended part 2 of our Fall break trip.  Part 3 would be a visit to Ceuta, post coming soon.

Fish sculpture at the beach

Sunday, October 23, 2016

The New Normal - Fall Break Part I, Tangier, Morocco

Richard and I headed out for our fall break trip on Saturday, October 14.  Part one began as we boarded our train at Voyageur Station; here are some highlights.
Cool train engine

After a four-hour train ride we arrived at our first destination, Tangier.  We stayed for four nights at the Hotel Rembrandt, located right in the middle of Tangier, with a beautiful view of Tangier Bay, and only a few minutes walk to the beach.  


View of the bay from our hotel




This was a cruise ship that came into the bay.  In front of it is a ferry boat, which looks tiny but is actually quite large.
Night view of Tangier Bay
Morning mist of Tangier Bay
A little info about Tangier:  This bustling city is on the Strait of Gibraltar and is a major port city in Morocco.  The location is basically where Africa meets Europe, and is only 17 miles off the southern coast of Spain.  Tangier has a rather colorful history, having been under the rule of a number of countries until Morocco's independence in 1956.  Tangier was known as a spying and smuggling center, especially during the Cold War.  


We headed to the old medina (the Grand Socco) on Monday morning and enjoyed strolling around the shops and seeing the Berber market.  The Berbers are indigenous people of North Africa, most of whom are farmers who live in the mountains.  They come to the Tangier market on Sundays to sell fruits, vegetables and other items.

Sunday market with the Berbers
We had a delicious lunch of Moroccan food in a lovely medina restaurant.

Ate at a delicious Moroccan restaurant in the medina

Yummy tajine
Steep roads of Tangier
The streets in Tangier are windy and steep.  They remind me of the hills in San Francisco; there is actually a street named rue San Francisco.


We bought a rug in the market from a Moroccan man who went to college in Georgia, USA!  (Small world.)



Buying a beautiful rug





We saw a very old mosque, from the year 1293.  There are two separate buildings, one for men and one for women.
1263 Mosque
We attended a Sunday morning service at the charming Saint Andrew's Anglican Church.  The land was donated to the British in 1880 (during Queen Victoria's reign) by Hassan I.  The cornerstone was laid in 1894, and the church was consecrated in 1905.  

The building is Moorish in style, with a bell tower that looks like a minaret.  The grounds contain a cemetery with more than 200 tombstones.  Many of the graves are those of British and Commonwealth soldiers who died fighting in North Africa in WWII.  Included are the headstones of an entire downed aircrew, which are attached "shoulder to shoulder"; they are quite a moving sight.  Like Saint John's in Casa, the cemetery/church grounds are like a mini oasis, with lovely plantings and blessed shade.


Keyhole door
Tower looks like a minaret
Beautiful plantings on the grounds of the church and cemetery
Inside, there are rounded arches that are elaborately carved.  I think it is interesting that behind the altar archway is a version of the Lord's Prayer, written in Arabic.  In addition, also behind the altar is a cleft that indicates the direction of Mecca, as well as carved quotes from the Quran.  Quite an interfaith experience!


The service was officiated by Father Simon, who led the service in English.  Richard and I were the only two Americans in attendance, and Richard volunteered to read one of the Bible texts.  Many of the worshippers were poor transients, hoping to emigrate to Spain from various African countries; they are there one day, and gone the next.



Inside of St. Andrews
One of the highlights later in the week was our visit to the Tangier American Legation Institute for Moroccan Studies.  It is located in the heart of the old medina.  It was the first American-owed public property outside of the United Stated and is the only historic landmark of the U.S. that is located abroad.  There are many historical and artistic items in the museum, most commemorating the relations between the U.S. and Morocco.  A large wing dedicated to writer and composer Paul Bowles was intriguing. Later, I will be doing a separate post about his interesting life and research.  There is also a research library, concentrating on Arabic language studies.


Richard at the entrance

Beautifully refurbished American flag rug

This is an 48-starred America flag carpet that has been refurbished and hangs in the Legation.  It was made around the time of Eisenhower's presidency and King Mohammad V's reign; the two met in 1959.


Moorish, stucco architecture

We also enjoyed strolling the beautiful shores.  Only in Morocco can you see ponies, horses and camels on the beach!






That's the end of Fall Break, Part 1.  Part two will be about our day trip to Tarifa, Spain.

Friday, October 7, 2016

The New Normal - Politics in Moroccos (and the U.S.)

DAD - This post is for you!  


My Dad loves his politics

The "Tractor Party" campaigning in our neighborhood



These leaflets litter the streets everywhere

Government and Elections:  Morocco vs the United States

Morocco - Campaigning started September 25 (yes, this year).
U.S. - Campaigning started sometime before the Ice Age.

Morocco - Elections were today, October 7.
U.S. - Elections will be on November 8.

Morocco - 30 parties are represented.
U.S. - 2 main parties, with a few others in the background.


These are the parties
Morocco - The multi-party system in the kingdom makes it impossible for any political party to win an absolute majority, forcing any winning party to work with other parties to form a coalition government.
U.S. - The modern political party system in the U.S. is a two-party system dominated by the Democratic Party and the Republican Party. These two parties have won every United States presidential election since 1852 and have controlled the United States Congress to some extent since at least 1856.

Morocco - 10 parliamentary elections have been held since Morocco's independence in 1956; the prime minister is elected, but the King is not elected.
U.S. - 56 total presidential elections have been held in the U.S. since it's independence in 1776.


Abdelilah Benkirane, prime minister
Morocco - Almost 16,000,000 Moroccans of the country's 34,000,000 eligible voters are registered to vote.
U.S. - 146, 311, 000 Americans of the country's 218,959,000 voters are registered to vote (2012 statistic).
There are seats guaranteed for women and young people
Morocco - The Moroccan Constitution provides for a monarchy with a Parliament and an independent judiciary. Parliament is made up of two directly elected chambers, the 395-member House of Representatives (the lower house) and the 270-member House of Advisers (the upper house). 
U.S. - There are three branches in U.S. government:  Executive, (the President and about 5,000,000 workers), Legislative (Senate and House of Representatives) and Judicial (Supreme Court and lower Courts). 


Moroccan Parliament
Morocco - Abdelilah Benkirane, Morroco's current Prime Minster, was elected in 2011.  And, let's not forget the King, Mohammed VI, who ascended to the throne in July of 1999 after his father died; who knows how long he'll be in power.
U.S. - Barack Obama II, elected in November of 2008 and re-elected 4 years later, is just finishing his second and final term.

King Mohammed VI
Morocco - The main battle in this election will be hotly contested between the ruling Islamist Justice and Development Party (PJD) and opposition Authenticity and Modernity Party (PAM).
U.S. - The main battle in this election will be between Donald Trump, a rich, narcissistic, disagreeable, crazy man with delusions of grandeur, and Hillary Clinton, a professional politician and shameless liar.  I do give Hillary props for knowing something about foreign policy and her experience as sec of state.  But, I'm still thinking about staying in Morocco for the next 4 years!

Morocco - Many expect the next government to alleviate the situation of healthcare, education and find new mechanism to generate employment, which remain major social challenges that previous governments failed to handle.
U.S. - God only knows.



Saturday, October 1, 2016

The New Normal - Hair and Nails in Casablanca


Coiffure Palace (Flashing in English); After picture


We've been in Casablanca for eight weeks . . . yes, eight whole weeks without a hair cut and color, and without a pedicure!  Richard got his hair cut and beard trimmed in early September, but I've been putting it off.  I figured it was time to venture out, since the gray roots on my hair were an inch long and my toe nails and feet were, well, you know. 



Before


Anyway, Paula from GWA was nice enough to make me an appointment with an awesome stylist named Souad at the Coiffure Palace (on Ghandi).  Paula also armed me with some French phrases like une coupe et coloration (cut and color) and couper mes points (cut my ends.)  



During
During (just like the foot massager Adam gave me, but lined with a plastic bag)

I had a wonderful experience (thank God!).  Both hair and pedi were fantastic. The cost for both together was only 380 MAD, about $38.  Can't beat that!


After


The only problem was that Souad insisted on blow drying my hair.  Alas, my curls turned to waves, but one washing will take care of that!



After


Coiffure Palace (Flashing in Arabic); After picture


After
And below is Richard looking good!  Mondial Coiffure was his barber of choice, but he may try the Palace next time.


Mondial Coiffure
Fresh from a haircut and beard trim