The New Normal - Christmas in Rome, part VI, 100 Crèches and hundreds more

Simply put, a creche (AKA crib, nativity scene, manger scene,  nursery, or presepio in Italian) represents the scene surrounding the birth of Jesus Christ.  Usually displayed at Christmastime, we see Jesus in the manager, Mary and Joseph, the three Wisemen, angels, shepherds, sheep, a donkey or ox, etc. in a barn or cave. Interestingly, here in Rome is the first time we have ever seen a Roman soldier in the depiction, though only twice in the many dozens of cribs we have encountered.  A nativity can be huge or tiny, old or modern,  Italian or international, sophisticated or simple, realistic or abstract, set indoors or outdoors, you name it.

Saint Peter's Basilica indoor  creche, close up 

Saint Peter's Basilica indoor creche, a small portion
There's no way to show in one picture just how huge and detailed it is!

St. Francis of Assisi created the first crib scene in 1223 in Greccio, Italy.  His was a living scene using humans and animals, and was staged in a cave.  In the year 1280, Arnolfo di Cambio created the first example in history of a non-living nativity.  He used wooden statues, some of which can still be seen today in the Chapel of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome.

Saint Peter's Basilica, outdoor creche close up

The crib and Christmas tree in Saint Peter's square were instituted by John Paul II in 1982

Saint Peter's Basilica, outdoor creche scene
17th Century Neapolitan Nativity, the largest in Rome

The craft of creating creches was honed in Tuscany, eventually moving to Naples, and then to other Italian states. In a short amount of time, manger scenes became very popular around Italy, with reenactments mostly being replaced by statues.  The scenes became more and more elaborate and intricate, first being placed in churches, and then becoming a part of Christmas in private homes and businesses in many countries.

Seen in the window of a Vatican City shop

After World War II, Christmas trees and Santa Claus replaced nativity scenes, especially in the minds of the young.  Now the creche tradition is enjoying a revival in Italy.  They can be seen in most of Rome's 900 churches, in squares, in homes and schools, in store windows and restaurants, etc., and are enjoyed by young and old alike.

Creche at Saint Andrews Church Rome, where we attended a service on Christmas Day

Crib scene in a restaurant

Individual artists from around the world have distinctive styles when making nativity scenes. The three popular types of creche scenes are: folk (includes trades, clothing, customs of the period, as well as the countryside), Neapolitan (in two parts - first, Mistero: the traditional Mary, Joseph, Baby Jesus, angels, ox and donkey.  Also includes Diversorio: everything else, like the pub, the market, hundreds of characters, different backgrounds, etc.) and Eastern or Historical (based on a careful study of the history of the landscape and human environment of the time.)

Basilica di Santa Maria Ad Martyres/Pantheon creche, close up

Pantheon creche

In our wanderings around Rome, we saw all types of nativity scenes everywhere.  Some were simple, others more complex, and many had moving parts and lights, but all were beautiful in their own way.  Most of these cribs did not contain the baby Jesus; the infant is added to the nativities on Christmas day!

Nativity in a Vatican City shop

Basilica de Santa Francisca Romana nativity

We also had the opportunity to attend the 100 Presepi exhibition.  This tradition first began in 1976 and was an attempt to bring back the popularity of creches. 

Tuscany, Italy - ceramic

Slovenia - paper

Poland - wood, cardboard, foil paper, fabric

Piedmonte, Italy - decorated packaging cardboard

I'm not sure where this one was made
Clearly the dress is not "historical", but the figures are very life-like
and the scene is beautiful

This year's Presepi is actually a display of more than 200 nativity scenes; the original title of 100 Presepi is an historical reference as that was the number of creches displayed in the first edition.  The cribs are housed in the Santa Maria del Popolo church, and we walked through, admiring the nativities at our own pace.

Croatia - copper foil

Austria - Austrian poor and popular technique

Udine, Italy

Puglia, Italy - paper  mache polychrome

Lazio, Italy - ink, bronze guild

Lazio, Italy - wood

Although most of the scenes were created in Italy, fifty of them come from other locations like North and South America, Europe, Asia, and Africa.  Some are clearly the work of artists, while others were created by amateurs.  Some are from museums or collectors, and some have been built by craftspeople or students of the craft.  Some actually make a political statement (I'm not sure how I feel about this.)

Lazio, Italy - Virgin Mary, Woman and Jesus' Mother, Hope Against Femicide
Wood, paper, plastic. This display is definitely making a political/societal statement, whose meaning is unclear to this non-Italian speaker


Iraq - Nativity Scene Between Natural Disasters and Man's Destruction
Another with political connotations

Lazio, Italy - cork, seeds, spices, wool
Magnifying glass to see the miniature under the small, glass dome

Lazio, Italy - teaspoon, brass nails

Lazio, Italy - used car parts

Cribs come in all sizes and shapes, and are made of all sorts of materials including wood, ceramic, clay, paper mache, and even cellophane, car parts and recycled materials.

Bacilicata, Italy - terracotta, tuff

Lazio, Italy - paper mache, clay.

Calabria, Italy - glass, crystal

Calabria, Italy - cooking film

Lazio, Italy - paper, cardboard

The pictures we took simply do not do justice to these works of art.  Seeing these beautiful  creches in the exhibit and around the city of Rome, and considering their meaning, made for a very moving experience.

I'm not sure where this nativity was made
I like the stained glass, which you don't see much in Roman churches

Basilicata, Italy - cork, wood paste

Guatamala

Dominican Republic, wood - The Migrants of the Sea

Croatia - wood, leather, textile

This nativity was one of my favorites and I don't know where it was made.  It you look in the center, the blue portion looks like a photo. but there is actually another scene back there, complete with bubbling brook and a wooden ship.