Thursday, September 29, 2016

The New Normal - Are we crazy?

"You're moving to Casablanca?"  "Are you crazy?"  More than a few people asked us this question and others like it when we announced our plans to move to Africa.





In fact, the first week we were in Morocco I kept asking myself "What am I doing here?"  I got a stomach bug almost immediately, which lasted for five days.  It's probably the sickest I've been in years and I began to doubt if I would ever shake it.  I was meeting tons of new people, but the last thing I felt like doing was socializing.  I wondered what my colleagues thought about this old woman who sat in the back of the room, looking green.  It was an interesting indoctrination to life in Casablanca, but thankfully things are much improved.






We've been in Africa for more than eight weeks now and the time is flying by.  We're living in a different country, in a strange city, in an apartment (not a house), and on a noisy street (not in a quiet suburb).  I have a new job, at a new school, working with lower school students (not middle school, like I'm used to).  We are adjusting to a world with unusual smells, sights and sounds.  We are dealing with life without a car, life without a dog, and life without Peter Pan peanut butter!  Communication is a constant challenge, as is grocery shopping, getting a hair appointment, or even crossing the street.  I take my life in my own hands every time I get into a car or the school bus, and when I elect to eat a piece of fruit without first peeling it.  We have attended services at two churches, both of which have different musical and preaching styles than we are used to. I miss my sons, my parents, my dogs, my Canterbury colleagues, and ORPC.  




While these may sound like complaints, they are really quite the opposite. Richard and I are stretching like we never have before.  We are meeting new people every day, and these people are becoming our friends.  We are going new places and seeing amazing sights.  We are experiencing a new culture, with different holidays, and foreign traditions.  Yes, there are things we miss terribly, but there are also constant surprises around every corner, and life is anything but dull. 





So, are we crazy?  Well, maybe.  But, here we are in Morocco, taking chances and growing by leaps and bounds.  We're enjoying our lives and meeting the challenge of living here. In the midst of it all, we are learning new things and making discoveries about ourselves in the process.  





Wednesday, September 28, 2016

The New Normal - Hassan II Mosque (part 1 - outside), Casablanca

On Sunday last weekend we took a cab to the Hassan II mosque. It's about 15 minutes by taxi from our apartment.  We had seen it from a distance many times and were anxious to experience it up close.  It is a most impressive, beautiful, majestic structure.  The Hassan II is the 7th largest mosque in the world and the largest in Africa.  It was completed in 1993 and is located in a run-down area right on the Atlantic Ocean.  We only got to see the outside of the building and the grounds; next time we will try to tour the inside.







King Hassan II commissioned the mosque in order that Casablanca might have a landmark monument.  A French architect named Michel Pinseau designed the mosque and 6000 Moroccan master craftsmen and artisans worked on building.  The land on which it is built was reclaimed from the former owners without compensation (bummer #1).  The cost of 800 million dollars was raised from the public; the donations were apparently "less than voluntary" (bummer #2).  However, the people seem very proud of their mosque, despite possible resentment. 






Stunning Metal Door (stunning man in front of it!)


 I love the fact that most of the materials used in the building of the mosque are from Morocco.  The cedar wood is from the Middle Atlas mountains, the granite is from Tafraoute, and the marble is from Agadir.  The only materials from outside Morocco are the white granite columns and the glass chandeliers (we haven't been inside to see the lights yet).  There is a lot of intricate carving, metal work and tiling all around the outside.



Fancy tiling

Intricately carved door
Star-sharped fountain (not working)


Arches adorn the perimeter
You can really get a sense of the expanse of the grounds from this shot


After we walked around the mosque grounds, we headed down the Corniche via sidewalk.  The nearby "beach" is rocky and slippery, but many people were walking around anyway.  The local Moroccans were enjoying a beautiful Sunday afternoon.



The mosque was built right over the water
Beach views of the mosque showing the slippery rock and folks wandering around on them.





Action on the Corniche


Two friends enjoying the lovely seaside weather




Below are the slippery, slimy stone steps that go from the sidewalk to the rocky beach.  Too slick for us to traverse and risk a fall.



Kind of risky
El Hank lighthouse in the distance
Beautiful view

Monday, September 26, 2016

The Corniche and El Hank Lighthouse, Casablanca

On Saturday, Richard and I took a nice, long walk along the Boulevard de la Corniche.  We strolled from the Anfa Mall to the El Hank Lighthouse, enjoying the beautiful seaside views along the way. 


The Anfa area is fairly well developed with stores, restaurants and a mall, but as we walked north, only old, rundown, ruined buildings and walls remain.  



I read that this area used to house a large salt-water pool, and beach clubs with imported white sand and swimming pools.  There are still clubs, but they aren't as nice as they used to be.  But, while the buildings have declined,  the scenery remains outstanding.










As we walked, the terrain became more and more rocky, eventually turning to cliffs.  According to an article I read, the roughness of the terrain, the strong currents and high humidity have discouraged much development here.  There are rocks and dark sand, which also might not be appealing for potential resorts.  However, the views are outstanding and I would think people would build here just for them.

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We eventually ended up at The El Hank Lighthouse (Pointe d'el-HankLight).  The lighthouse was built in 1919 to help sailors avoid the shoreline.  It stands 161 feet tall and the light can be seen from 30 nautical miles away.  The round masonry tower is currently painted white, but it used to have elaborate, colored designs on it. You can actually walk up the 260 steps in the lighthouse, but we decided to save that for another day (maybe).


Here's what the lighthouse used to look like (a Google image); colorful with a nice wall around it.



I wish they had kept the colors

Here's what it looks like today; white, crumbling wall, getting run-down.

The ship-like structure below is located near the lighthouse.  When Richard and I walked near it, we realized it was not a boat, but rather a building constructed right on the shoreline.  We think it might be a boat-shaped house, but we're not sure.  We saw no signs of life there.




The whole area around the lighthouse kind of looks like a war zone, with walls that remind me of an old fort.  There is a shanty town (bidonville) located near the lighthouse.  It is surrounded by a protective wall and only the poorest live in this part of town. Richard and I were speculating about ownership; who knows.


Bidonville - shanty town


Beyond the bidonville are large, white apartments, originally built for the working-class Jewish community.  The impressive villas inhabited by the rich are located some distance from the coast, away from the bidonville and the apartments, and even the beautiful ocean views.



I think the Corniche has a lot of potential, and it's a shame it has not been kept up better.  I still enjoyed walked the shoreline, listening to the waves crashing on the rocks, and feeling the wind on my face.   

Sunday, September 25, 2016

The New Normal - Party at Villa Mirador (hobnobbing with Churchill & FDR), Casablanca



Villa Mirador
GWA's faculty and spouses were invited to a party last Friday. Also in attendance were personnel from a few other Casablanca American schools.  It was held at the Consulate General's residence called Villa Mirador, which was built in 1935.  Richard and I were excited to experience a home with such interesting historical significance to both Morocco and the United States.


Morocco has long been a friend of the U.S.  In 1777, it opened it's ports to the U.S. and therefore was the first country to recognize the "new United States".  The two countries relations were formalized with the "Moroccan/American Treaty of Friendship" in 1786.



The Casablanca War Conference was held at Villa Mirador from January 14-23, 1943.  The meetings were between F.D. Roosevelt and Winston Churchill, with Joseph Stalin being left out (he wasn't happy about this.)  What was decided in Casablanca effected the War in Eastern Europe.  Here they laid plans for campaigns to be undertaken in 1943 against France, Italy and Germany.  As it says on the plaque below, they decided, "the war would be carried on until the unconditional surrender of the axis powers."


Plaque in the Map/War room
The Map/War Room 
Flags in the map/war room

Photos of significance to the War Conference
Churchill
Churchill and FDR

Villa Mirador is a beautiful place, inside and out.  Here are some pictures of the parts of the interior in which we were allowed.






The grounds were also beautiful.






Richard kind of has that "stately" look like Winston, but alas, no stogie.

Richard at dusk
He does have one thing in common with the great Churchill, however! . . .




Overseas Buildings, Villa Mirador
http://overseasbuildings.state.gov/sites/admin-overseasbuildings.state.gov/files/pdfs/casablanca.pdf