The New Normal - Ramadan and wonderful friends!

Generous Moroccan hospitality, Ftour.  I wonder if it will be enough!

Moroccans and Muslims everywhere are in the middle of their obligatory annual observance of the holy month of Ramadan.  This sacred time occurs annually in the 9th month of the 354-day Islamic 'lunar' calendar.  It is celebrated to commemorate the Muslim belief that Allah delivered the Quran to the Prophet Muhammad on 'Laylat-al Qadr', the most high holy night of the year.  This day occurs on an odd-numbered night sometime during the last 10 days of Ramadan. Muslims believe that the course of the year to come is determined by Allah on this special night.

Richard and Makram; check out that cool Sphinx necklace

The exact dates of Ramadan vary from country to country, all depending on whether the moon has been seen or not. Here in Morocco, we actually didn't know when Ramadan was going to begin until the night before, when the first sliver of the crescent moon was finally spotted. 

Karima and Mehdi, traditionally decorated Moroccan restaurant)

Knowing the start date of Ramadan is important, as there are a lot of changes around here at this time of year.  Most noticeable, is that Muslims fast all day, every day for the entire month.  The 'Sawm', or ritual fast, is one of the five pillars of Islam.  Muslims believe that fasting teaches self-control and allows people to focus more on their faith.  It also teaches empathy for those less fortunate, and therefore acts of generosity and charity increase during this time. 

Richard and Makram waiting to eat 

Judy and Mehdi at the restaurant; we're starting to look alike...

While exceptions to the fasting rule are made for a variety of reasons including old age, sickness, traveling, and young age, many Muslims practice this ritual.  Even children fast, but generally do not do so until they reach the age of puberty.  In GWA's lower school, there are many 5th graders not eating while at school, and even a few 4th and 3rd graders have made this choice. Many of these students sit outside at lunch time to avoid being tortured by the aromatic smells of the MPR. 

Fasting GWA fifth graders seem to be surviving nicely 

The daily ritual begins with a predawn meal, called 'Suhoor', right before sunrise. The morning meal must last for the entire day, so it has to be a hearty one.  Then, the call to prayer at dawn, 'Fajr', marks the start of the daily fast, which does not end until sunset. Not only is eating against the rules during Ramadan, but drinking (even water), smoking, and engaging in sexual relations are also prohibited. You can imagine, especially toward the end of each day, that tensions are high. 

Picture seen at restaurant; is she wondering how we ate so much?

Muslims also pray more often during Ramadan.  Normally, there are five calls to prayer each day, but during Ramadan an extra prayer called the 'Taraweeh' prayer is recited.  This 'Night Prayer' is much longer than the usual daily prayers.  My friend sets an alarm to wake her each morning at 3:38 AM in order to offer this prayer.

Usual hours for stores and other businesses are altered, so it's better to check ahead before going out.  Most restaurants are closed during the day, but some, like McDonalds, are open to expats and other non-Muslims. Although the hours are different, souks and markets are generally less busy when they are open.  Shopping at the Habous (the 'New Medina') in Casa, was quite pleasant a few weeks back due to the lack of crowds. In addition, Ramadan is a good time to hit the beach, as Muslims generally don't go there while fasting. 

For us, finding an open pharmacy posed a challenge.  It took us two days at the start of Ramadan to figure out which pharmacy near us might be open. The signs on closed pharmacies indicating the hours of open stores were not necessarily accurate.  We walked to two of them on Saturday, to find them both closed.  On Sunday, we finally found one that was open, although there was quite a long line.  But, no worries, we got our meds and it's all good.

NOBODY on the streets during Ftour time

The Casa traffic patterns during Ramadan are different as well.  I have noticed that the streets are not as busy in the morning, but traffic increases from the norm earlier in the afternoon than usual. People leave work early and head to the grocery stores and home to cook.  Drivers tend to be more aggressive than usual (if that's possible), probably because they are hungry!  

                 Crescent moon toward the beginning of Ramadan, although, I think the flash illuminated the moon's entire surface; anyway, it was a beautiful night.

The streets are virtually empty during the last 30 minutes before sundown, and it's hard to find a taxi if you do want to go somewhere. However, many of the few crazy drivers out there at this time of day are so anxious to get home to families and break the fast, that they totally disregard the traffic laws (such as they are). Staying off the streets at this time of day is probably a good idea. But later, right after sundown, it's a total ghost town and there's not a car or person in sight.  Everybody is busy eating.

I love traditional Moroccan mint tea

At GWA, school opens one hour later each morning during Ramadan.  This allows families to sleep in, after staying up later than usual to celebrate the 'Ftour' (the Arabic derivation of the 'Iftar' meal.)  For 30 days in a row, Ftour means basically a party every night!  

We celebrated our first Ftour at this awesome restaurant near the Corniche (May 30)

Richard and I enjoyed celebrating the breaking of the fast meal in an awesome restaurant with Moroccan friends.  A 7PM reservation was necessary, so we could all arrive the required 30 minutes in advance of the start of Ftour (it is not cool to be late for obvious reasons). 

What do you do when waiting for the fast day to end?  Play with fidget spinners, of course!

People gathered at tables and chatted for a half hour, without eating or drinking.  At 7:30, folks got up and loaded their plates at the buffet, and then sat down again.  Still, no eating or drinking. I'm not sure what signaled that the fast was over, but around 7:38 everyone began partaking, and a festive evening of eating and conversation began!

Many delicious traditional main dishes and treats were available. The feast also included fresh fruit and juice and, of course, traditional Moroccan mint tea. I especially enjoyed the beef tagine (or tajine) and the pastilla, a type of Moroccan meat pie.  It's interesting to note that Moroccans actually consume more food at this time of year, despite the fact that they fast all day.  I blame the Ftour!

Tagine pots

Beef Tagine with prunes

Beghrir, traditional Moroccan pancakes, with honey

Our second 'breaking of the fast' was combined with my friend Jessica's housewarming, celebrating her new apartment.  We enjoyed both traditional Ftour fare (including dates and milk to break the fast), along with foods both Moroccan and American in style.  

Jessica (in her new apartment), with Kelley

Kaoutar

Alyssa, Kelley, Naledi, Cherith

Shanti, Lindsay, Trista, Nissa

Mix of Moroccan and American fare for Ftoor, June 2 at Jessica's Ftour/housewarming

Both Moroccan and American cookies for this Ftour

I have noticed that Moroccans as a people are very proud of their hospitality.  Our Sunday evening celebrating another Ftour with the El Outtassi family illustrated this point.  Makram picked us up a bit later than than expected (a mishap with Mehdi's wayward flipflop) to bring us to their home. What a spread of food!  Karima spent most of the day preparing a very special Ftour for us, and we enjoyed every minute of the festivities.  Thank you so much for the invitation, Karima and Makram!

This was only a part of all the food Karima prepared!  Mind you, all of this is for only 5 people.

Makram in his new jalaba, pretending to be a tea server

Judy, Karima, Mehdi, Richard - The family!

Richard and Makram looking cool in their hats

As expats, we appreciate the Ramadan tradition and try to respect it by not eating or drinking in public during the daylight hours. Richard and I take all of our meals at home, and try to avoid even drinking water outside home and work. 

An extra special night occurs at the end of Ramadan called 'Aid Al Fitr'. Special prayers and a sermon are offered at the mosque, and then people gather for large meals (what a surprise).  During this 'Feast of Fast Breaking'  many cities have large celebrations. Sounds like fun!

Chapter 2, Revelation 185, of the Quran states:
The month of Ramadan is that in which was revealed the Quran; a guidance for mankind, and clear proofs of the guidance, and the criterion (of right and wrong). And whosoever of you is present, let him fast the month, and whosoever of you is sick or on a journey, a number of other days. Allah desires for you ease; He desires not hardship for you; and that you should complete the period, and that you should magnify Allah for having guided you, and that perhaps you may be thankful. [Quran 2:185]. 

https://www.soundvision.com/article/a-ramadan-fact-sheet-for-teachers

The New Normal - A long weekend in Sintra, Portugal

Olá!  Continuing our travel adventures, we decided to take advantage of a a few extra days off and visit nearby Portugal. Richard and I flew into the city of Lisbon, a one-hour plane ride from Casablanca. Rather than touring the bustling capital of Portugal, we decided to spend our short trip visiting the picturesque town of Sintra.  In 1995, Sintra was classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and contains many of Portugal's most important parks and monuments.

Little waterfall/fountain seen on the walk from our hotel into town

Sintra Hotel Jardim from the front

Sintra Hotel Jardim, patio

Not too shabby view from the hotel

Our three nights at the Hotel Sintra Jardim were quiet and peaceful, and a pleasant respite from city life in Casa.  The residence is 150-years-old, with beautiful grounds, a pool, and a view of Sintra's Moorish Castle.  The location, green and nestled in the hills, was perfect.  It was close enough for a quick taxi ride to get an evening meal, but far enough from the noise of the town to seem more like a tranquil country inn.  The staff was very friendly and helpful (and speak English!), and the breakfast was great. Below is some of the architecture we saw walking toward town from the hotel.

We visited the Park of Pena, including the eclectic Palacio National da Pena (The Feather Palace), which is located high over the town of Sintra. The palace looks like something out of a fairy tale, and conjured visions of Disney World in my head.  Built around an old monastery, the castle is painted in many different bright colors and utilizes various architectural styles.

Castle entrance, reminiscent of the Moroccan style keyhole arch

Looks like a knights realm from a Renaissance Festival

Construction started in the 1400's, first as Our Lady of Pena Chapel and then a monastery.  Lightning and the 1755 earthquake destroyed much of the monastery, but the chapel survived. 

Vivid colors of the turrets and various levels of the castle

Looks like a fairytale place to me

Portuguese flag and view toward the park

Later, in 1838, King Ferdinand purchased the abandoned site, along with the Moorish Castle, which we also visited.  The stunning views were the inspiration for the building of a summer palace for Portuguese royalty. The lavish, Romantic retreat was completed in 1847, and changed hands a few times after Ferdinand died.  In 1889,  the entire park was acquired by the Portuguese State.  It is now a museum and tourist attraction.  

One of the terrace views from the castle

View of the back side of the castle on the walk up the hill

The inside of the castle was not as ornate as some we have seen. But, I imagine it wasn't too tough roughing it here for summer vacation!   

Window view of the valley

Bust of King Ferdinand

Dining Room

One of 4 turtles holding up a huge urn

Ornate desk

Stained glass, currently housed in the Stag Room

The Stag Room, how's that for a rack, Marc! (The head itself is fake, but the horns are real.)

The kitchen, with so much copper



Sacristy, room adjoining the former church

While Pena is likely the most popular of the palaces in Sintra, it was our least favorite.  It was a bit "touristy" and too crowded for my taste. Nonetheless, we very much enjoyed walking around the terraces and taking in the sweeping views of the valley and the Moorish Castle in the distance.  I wish we had had time to wander the grounds as well; maybe next trip.

Impressive view from Pena of the Moorish Castle and the valley

A short ride from Pena is the Castelo Mouros, The Moorish Castle, dating back to the early 8th century and the Moorish occupation.  It was originally built by the Muslim population that occupied the Iberian peninsula.  The fortress was strategically located to defend the land to the north, and the Atlantic coast and maritime access to the city of Lisbon. 

After many attempts, the fortress was finally taken in 1147 by Alfonso I, the first King of Portugal.  Eventually losing its strategic importance during peacetime, the medieval Castle of the Moors was abandoned. Later, King Ferdinand bought and restored the fortress and the grounds.   Many other restoration projects have taken place since that time.

Burial grounds (fake skeleton)

Burial grounds covered in glass for preservation

Donkey Reserve, at the Moorish Castle

The castle and its walls wind over two ridges of the Serra de Sintra Mountains.  It is irregularly built with a double set of walls on the mountainous cliffs, which requires visitors to walk up and down quite a few stairs.  But, exploring the grounds and seeing the panoramic views were worth our aching legs and feet!

View of the Palace of Sintra (the Town Palace) taken from the Moorish Castle

Our favorite place to visit was the Quinta da Regaleira, located at the highest point of Sintra, and built on a cultural landscape that dates back to the early Neolithic period.  The 5-story, very ornate 20th century residence combines Egyptian, Gothic, Moorish and Renaissance features. It was built by its former owner, Antonico Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, together with Italian opera set designer and architect, Lugi Manini. Masonic and Templar symbols abound, which helps add to the "mysterious, divinely magical place" the architects wanted to create.

Looks kind of spooky in this picture

This room is decorated by the portraits of 20 Portuguese Kings and 4 Queens

A trip would not be complete without a Richard statue imitation

Meandering through the woods and gardens of the estate was like spending time on the set of an old, magical story.  I can't even imagine being a member of the Monteiro family and being able to summer here. The seemingly endless gardens, lakes, waterfalls, towers, grottos, wells, as well as underground caves and tunnels create an ethereal feel.  

One of many tunnel entrances

A large network of tunnels links many buildings of the estate

Beautiful spring that just appeared at the end of one of the tunnels

Greenhouse on the estate

One of the spring wells, connected to the tunnels

The aquarium is built to look like it naturally exists among the rocks

The aquarium from the opposite side; can be accessed via tunnel

Portal of the Guardians, under which is attached a tunnel leading to the Initiation Well

Another underground spring

The Gods' Promenade

She's shy

Actually, he kind of looks like this god . . .

The palace chapel is built in the Neo-Manueline style.  Inside, many symbols of the Knights Templar and decorations depicting the life of Jesus Christ can be seen.  The crypt in the lower floor can be accessed via tunnel.

The Palace Chapel

Crypt

Tunnel exit from the crypt

Truth be told, the main reason I wanted to visit Sintra in the first place was to see the Initiation Well, located at Regaleira. There are actually two of these wells situated on the grounds, and one is unfinished.  

Visitors can look into the 27-meter deep subterranean tower of the well, which is accessible by a winding, spiral staircase in its interior.  This finished well contains nine platforms, possibly symbolic of the nine circles of Hell, the nine sections of Purgatory, and the nine skies, which comprise Paradise in Dante's the Divine Comedy.  There is a compass over a Knights Templar cross at the bottom of the well.  

Views from below

The smaller "unfinished well" has straight staircases connecting ring-shaped floors.  It is said that the spacing and the number of steps were dictated by the principles of the Masonic order.

The Unfinished Well

There is not much known about how these wells were used. However, the meticulous planning that went into creating them speaks volumes about their importance.  I can't help but wonder what went on there.

And so ends our last trip before returning to the United States for vacation on June 27.  We can't wait to see everyone.  Tchau!

 

Airport addendum . . . 

Would you eat this sandwich?

An entire store at the Lisbon airpot dedicated solely to selling sardines