The New Normal - The start of year two overseas, Eid weekend in Madrid, Spain

Here we are, year two in Morocco.  Following four work days and three days with students at GWA, the second of two annual Eid holidays of the year arrived. Amid the "baas" of stereo sheep, we left the city and drove to the airport.  Since we had purchased our own car at the end of May, there was no need to call on Hamada - - we felt like adults actually driving ourselves! Anyway, despite the holiday, Mohammed V was surprisingly-not-crowded, and so began our first official trip of the school year, Madrid, Spain.  

Our hotel, the Barcelo Torre de Madrid, is located in the center of Spain's capitol on the Plaza de Espana.  The Plaza across the street from the hotel, is a green park with two beautiful fountains.  

Famous Spanish designer Jaime Hayon designed the hotel, which was converted from the iconic building of the same name.  The nine-floor structure used to be considered the tallest concrete building in the world. It's truly a first class facility, with a crystal clear spa pool, rooftop sunbathing area and newly-renovated 258 rooms.  Most importantly it is located in the center of the city with fast access to the palace, Gran Via and other sties.  We enjoyed staying there and highly recommend it. 

I love the look of European water bottles!

The Royal Palace of Madrid (Palacio Real in Spanish) is a 10-minute walk from the hotel.  The Royal Palace is probably the most famous of the twelve in the city. We arrived there on our first morning in Madrid just before the 10AM opening. We walked by just as the changing of the guard began, with fife and drums, horses and rifles. 

Palace guards

Palace Guards

Palacio Real, Royal Palace of Madrid

Richard, guarding the palace

While the palace is currently not the official residence of the King of Spain, state ceremonies and other state functions do take place there.  The current monarch, Felipe VI, actually lives in the Zarauela Palace outside of the city.

The palace has Muslim origins like many we have visited in various countries. The Muslim Kingdom of Toledo built a defense on the site in the 9th century, which was later used by the Kings of Castile (forerunners of the modern Spanish monarchs).  In the 16th Century, the Alcázar Castle was constructed there. Alcázar was subsequently destroyed in a fire in 1734, and then King Felipe V decided to build a palace on the site.  

Italian designer Filippo Juvara designed the 1,450,000 square foot grand palace, the largest in Europe.  It is similar in style to France's Versailles, which we saw last year. Vaulted stone and brick were used in construction, rather than wood, so the structure could never be destroyed by fire.  Construction years were 1738-1755, and the first king to establish residence there was Carlos (Charles) III, in 1764. It seems like Carlos the III is the man-about-town in Madrid!

One of the inner courtyards, pic taken from inside the palace

Vaulted Stone

We entered the palace from the Plaza de Armas courtyard. The interior of the palace is lovely, with walls made of Spanish marble and stucco, and mahogany windows and doors.  We got to see many important works of arts, including paintings and frescoes.  

Photos were not allowed in many of the rooms, but we were allowed to take pictures as we ascended the grand staircase. The staircase itself is made of a single piece of San Agustin marble (how is that possible?).  The fresco above the stairs was created by Corrado Giaguinto and represents Religion Protected by Spain.

Awesome frescos, ornately decorated ceilings

Carlos III enjoying time with Richard, Statue imitation

The palace also has a lovely interior courtyard, from which the Almudena Cathedral can be seen. 

Almudena Cathedra

Located on the grounds of the palace is Royal Armory of Madrid. Here we saw personal items from many of the Kings of Spain, military works of art including lovely tapestries, and of course, weapons from both the past and present.  There were many suits of armor, life-sized model horses with knights in their saddles, swords, cross-bows and all manner of guns.  The building reminded me of a horse arena with a modern-looking ached roof.

Royal Armory

Royal Armory

There was also a temporary art exhibition housed at the palace while we were there.  It is called Carlos III Majesty and Ornament in the Environment of the Enlightened King (now that's a mouthful!).  Carlos III was an art lover, and we got to see paintings, sculptures, and tapestries produced during his reign as King on display.  I particularly enjoyed examining two smaller paintings, both by Pietro Fabris.  They are called "Departure of Charles III of Bourbon for Spain", 1759, and are folklike in nature.  I loved looking closely at the detail and observing the action. The two works were created from different perspectives, which added to my interest.

Pietro Fabris Painting

Close-up detail

Close-up detail

Another perspective

Close-up detail

Close-up detail

Tapestry on display; how long would it take to make this by hand?

Carlos's extravagant tapestry bed

View of Madrid from the Castle

After dinner, we strolled around and got an evening perspective of the area near our hotel.  The fountains all lit up looked even more beautiful at night. 

We spent most of Sunday, our second and last full day, on a hop-on/off type bus tour. We got to see a lot of the city this way. It was very pleasant sitting up high, listening through earphones, and learning about Madrid.  I am particularly fond of the many fountains, statues, and interesting architecture we saw along the way.  Here are some pictures from the tour.

Seen on a storefront . . .

The Gran Via (the big road) runs straight through the city centre.  It is an upscale shopping street, with theatres and restaurants.  AKA Spanish Broadway, there are musicals and other shows playing, all in Spanish . . . 

Beautiful fountains are found throughout the city . . . 

I'm really not sure how they did this!  It looks like plants and small bushes growing on the side of a building.  The second picture is a close up . . .

Home stadium for the Real Madrid soccer team . . .

This small stone slab marks the geographical center of Spain and is the point from which all distances are measured in this country. Specifically, it's the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads, A-1 to A-6. If you look carefully at the center, you can see the map of the six roads radiating out. The  Origen de Las Carreteras Radiales or Kilometer Zero.   . . .

  

Yes, the man below is real and balancing on his arm (Richard thinks he has some sort of frame under his costume) . . .

Richard meets Mr. Bean/Rowan Atkinson . . .

There are six gates into the city of Madrid.  La Puerta de Alcalá gate is a granite monument built in the neoclassical style.  This gate is older than the similar Arc de Triomphe that we saw in Paris, and is also a triumphal arch.  It was designed by Italian architect Francesco Sabatini and erected to celebrate the arrival of Carlos III to Madrid.  Madrid really is all about this King! . . .

The Museo del Jabon, the museum of ham; it's just a restaurant chain, but you'd never find this in Morocco :-) . . .

Madrid has more high speed rail connections to other countries than any other.  Here is Madrid's Atocha railway station . . .

Teatro Real Opera House . . .

Moroccan Embassy in Madrid . . .

Palacio de Cibeles or Madrid's City Hall; yes, that really says "Refugees Welcome" on a banner! . . .

Spain's flag . . .

Our last evening was spent strolling around the castle area, eating Paella, listening to street harp musicians, and watching the sunset behind the castle.  Below are some images we captured.

The last remaining parts of the Madrid fence of 1567.  The fence established the limits of the town during the reign of Phillip II . . .

Plaza de Oriente, Statues of old Spanish kings . . .

Camouflage tree and matching statue . . .

Richard and Don Quixote . . .

Sharing a delicious pan of paella for dinner . . .

Watching the sunset behind the palace . . .

A great first trip of the school year behind us already.  We can't wait for the next adventure!

The New Normal - Where is home anyway?

Dad carved my Africa necklace

You decide to leave home and go to work in a foreign country. You're no spring chicken, but admittedly don't have one foot in the grave either.  Life overseas is exciting, but a bit scary as you face challenges adjusting to a new job, new culture, and new people, not to mention dealing with thoughts of what you have left behind. You travel to many countries, make strides, have setbacks, and learn a lot during your first year abroad. The school year draws to a close and you look forward to returning home; the thought of six weeks in America is almost intoxicating.

Marc's boat

We left our Casablanca apartment on June 27 at 4:30AM, and after being waylaid overnight in Montreal due to bad weather, we arrived in sunny Greensboro, North Carolina, a few days later.  Our friends picked us up at the airport and we began our six week orientation back to life in the U.S.

Reflections

Ella, Brandy and Marc

Our time in NC was made much easier thanks to Susan and Ron Carpenter, who graciously invited us to share their abode.  Our house is being rented, so staying there was not possible.  For about four weeks of our time in America, "home" was at Sue and Ron's.

Great cookin' at Sue and Ron's

Shoe, carved by Dad (Pap)

We got to visit our three Presbyterian church families . . . Fellowship, where Richard preached a sermon, Pleasant Grove, and Oakridge.  We really loved seeing everyone again. Our Sunday "home" was at one of these three Presbyterian churches, where we were welcomed with open arms.

Richard and Leann

Trail near Suzann's 

One of our great joys was reconnecting with Greensboro area friends and family. Dinner and lunch were shared with Sammie and Steve Braxton, Beth and Robert Dunbar, Sue and Ben Smith, Michael and Penny Vance-Cheney, Janet Mintz, Leann, Baz and Noah, John Hartman, Hubert and Margie Lathan, Ruthie Tutterow, and, of course, Sue and Ron Carpenter. Admittedly, we have really missed American food, and it seems like we have done nothing except eat for six weeks.  But, we had that feeling of "home" when we broke bread with you.

Dad (Pap)

Hang on

Dad and Mom (Pap and Grag)

During a part of our stay, we left NC to visit family further away. Richard spent time in New Hampshire with his brother Peter, and in Albany, NY with his daughter Suzann and her family.  I went to Vermont to be with my parents, and also got to visit with my brother Marc and his family.  For 10 days, "home" for me was sitting on the dock enjoying the view, swimming or fishing, doing a puzzle in the house with my father, or reading and just hanging out.

Braelyn and Caiden (2 of Richard's 12 grandchilden)

Bros Peter and Richard

The highlight of my time in the U.S. was being with Sam's the man. He fell in with us just like we never left.  We can never thank the amazing folks at Autumn House for the care they show to our boy. "Home" for him is the people at Autumn House, for whom we are so thankful, and "home" to me will always be where he is.

Peek-a-boo, Sam!

Upon reflection, I realize that "home" can be in more than one location and that each one represents a part of me.  The experiences I have in each place, with each group of people, contribute to who I am.  I think back in my mind to where I have been, remembering emotions felt, and keeping those memories of "home" close. Change is inevitable and it is comforting to me to think ahead to where I plan to go, knowing there are more connections to be made.  

Puzzle on the porch

So, now we prepare to head back to Morocco this coming Tuesday. We will leave in the early morning and arrive the next morning.  I am confident that as soon as we arrive, Casablanca will feel just like "home".

Addendum:  We made it back to Morocco and found this new mat on our doorstep, courtesy of our friends, the El Ouattassis.  What a poetic coincidence, or is it?

The New Normal - Ramadan and wonderful friends!

Generous Moroccan hospitality, Ftour.  I wonder if it will be enough!

Moroccans and Muslims everywhere are in the middle of their obligatory annual observance of the holy month of Ramadan.  This sacred time occurs annually in the 9th month of the 354-day Islamic 'lunar' calendar.  It is celebrated to commemorate the Muslim belief that Allah delivered the Quran to the Prophet Muhammad on 'Laylat-al Qadr', the most high holy night of the year.  This day occurs on an odd-numbered night sometime during the last 10 days of Ramadan. Muslims believe that the course of the year to come is determined by Allah on this special night.

Richard and Makram; check out that cool Sphinx necklace

The exact dates of Ramadan vary from country to country, all depending on whether the moon has been seen or not. Here in Morocco, we actually didn't know when Ramadan was going to begin until the night before, when the first sliver of the crescent moon was finally spotted. 

Karima and Mehdi, traditionally decorated Moroccan restaurant)

Knowing the start date of Ramadan is important, as there are a lot of changes around here at this time of year.  Most noticeable, is that Muslims fast all day, every day for the entire month.  The 'Sawm', or ritual fast, is one of the five pillars of Islam.  Muslims believe that fasting teaches self-control and allows people to focus more on their faith.  It also teaches empathy for those less fortunate, and therefore acts of generosity and charity increase during this time. 

Richard and Makram waiting to eat 

Judy and Mehdi at the restaurant; we're starting to look alike...

While exceptions to the fasting rule are made for a variety of reasons including old age, sickness, traveling, and young age, many Muslims practice this ritual.  Even children fast, but generally do not do so until they reach the age of puberty.  In GWA's lower school, there are many 5th graders not eating while at school, and even a few 4th and 3rd graders have made this choice. Many of these students sit outside at lunch time to avoid being tortured by the aromatic smells of the MPR. 

Fasting GWA fifth graders seem to be surviving nicely 

The daily ritual begins with a predawn meal, called 'Suhoor', right before sunrise. The morning meal must last for the entire day, so it has to be a hearty one.  Then, the call to prayer at dawn, 'Fajr', marks the start of the daily fast, which does not end until sunset. Not only is eating against the rules during Ramadan, but drinking (even water), smoking, and engaging in sexual relations are also prohibited. You can imagine, especially toward the end of each day, that tensions are high. 

Picture seen at restaurant; is she wondering how we ate so much?

Muslims also pray more often during Ramadan.  Normally, there are five calls to prayer each day, but during Ramadan an extra prayer called the 'Taraweeh' prayer is recited.  This 'Night Prayer' is much longer than the usual daily prayers.  My friend sets an alarm to wake her each morning at 3:38 AM in order to offer this prayer.

Usual hours for stores and other businesses are altered, so it's better to check ahead before going out.  Most restaurants are closed during the day, but some, like McDonalds, are open to expats and other non-Muslims. Although the hours are different, souks and markets are generally less busy when they are open.  Shopping at the Habous (the 'New Medina') in Casa, was quite pleasant a few weeks back due to the lack of crowds. In addition, Ramadan is a good time to hit the beach, as Muslims generally don't go there while fasting. 

For us, finding an open pharmacy posed a challenge.  It took us two days at the start of Ramadan to figure out which pharmacy near us might be open. The signs on closed pharmacies indicating the hours of open stores were not necessarily accurate.  We walked to two of them on Saturday, to find them both closed.  On Sunday, we finally found one that was open, although there was quite a long line.  But, no worries, we got our meds and it's all good.

NOBODY on the streets during Ftour time

The Casa traffic patterns during Ramadan are different as well.  I have noticed that the streets are not as busy in the morning, but traffic increases from the norm earlier in the afternoon than usual. People leave work early and head to the grocery stores and home to cook.  Drivers tend to be more aggressive than usual (if that's possible), probably because they are hungry!  

                 Crescent moon toward the beginning of Ramadan, although, I think the flash illuminated the moon's entire surface; anyway, it was a beautiful night.

The streets are virtually empty during the last 30 minutes before sundown, and it's hard to find a taxi if you do want to go somewhere. However, many of the few crazy drivers out there at this time of day are so anxious to get home to families and break the fast, that they totally disregard the traffic laws (such as they are). Staying off the streets at this time of day is probably a good idea. But later, right after sundown, it's a total ghost town and there's not a car or person in sight.  Everybody is busy eating.

I love traditional Moroccan mint tea

At GWA, school opens one hour later each morning during Ramadan.  This allows families to sleep in, after staying up later than usual to celebrate the 'Ftour' (the Arabic derivation of the 'Iftar' meal.)  For 30 days in a row, Ftour means basically a party every night!  

We celebrated our first Ftour at this awesome restaurant near the Corniche (May 30)

Richard and I enjoyed celebrating the breaking of the fast meal in an awesome restaurant with Moroccan friends.  A 7PM reservation was necessary, so we could all arrive the required 30 minutes in advance of the start of Ftour (it is not cool to be late for obvious reasons). 

What do you do when waiting for the fast day to end?  Play with fidget spinners, of course!

People gathered at tables and chatted for a half hour, without eating or drinking.  At 7:30, folks got up and loaded their plates at the buffet, and then sat down again.  Still, no eating or drinking. I'm not sure what signaled that the fast was over, but around 7:38 everyone began partaking, and a festive evening of eating and conversation began!

Many delicious traditional main dishes and treats were available. The feast also included fresh fruit and juice and, of course, traditional Moroccan mint tea. I especially enjoyed the beef tagine (or tajine) and the pastilla, a type of Moroccan meat pie.  It's interesting to note that Moroccans actually consume more food at this time of year, despite the fact that they fast all day.  I blame the Ftour!

Tagine pots

Beef Tagine with prunes

Beghrir, traditional Moroccan pancakes, with honey

Our second 'breaking of the fast' was combined with my friend Jessica's housewarming, celebrating her new apartment.  We enjoyed both traditional Ftour fare (including dates and milk to break the fast), along with foods both Moroccan and American in style.  

Jessica (in her new apartment), with Kelley

Kaoutar

Alyssa, Kelley, Naledi, Cherith

Shanti, Lindsay, Trista, Nissa

Mix of Moroccan and American fare for Ftoor, June 2 at Jessica's Ftour/housewarming

Both Moroccan and American cookies for this Ftour

I have noticed that Moroccans as a people are very proud of their hospitality.  Our Sunday evening celebrating another Ftour with the El Outtassi family illustrated this point.  Makram picked us up a bit later than than expected (a mishap with Mehdi's wayward flipflop) to bring us to their home. What a spread of food!  Karima spent most of the day preparing a very special Ftour for us, and we enjoyed every minute of the festivities.  Thank you so much for the invitation, Karima and Makram!

This was only a part of all the food Karima prepared!  Mind you, all of this is for only 5 people.

Makram in his new jalaba, pretending to be a tea server

Judy, Karima, Mehdi, Richard - The family!

Richard and Makram looking cool in their hats

As expats, we appreciate the Ramadan tradition and try to respect it by not eating or drinking in public during the daylight hours. Richard and I take all of our meals at home, and try to avoid even drinking water outside home and work. 

An extra special night occurs at the end of Ramadan called 'Aid Al Fitr'. Special prayers and a sermon are offered at the mosque, and then people gather for large meals (what a surprise).  During this 'Feast of Fast Breaking'  many cities have large celebrations. Sounds like fun!

Chapter 2, Revelation 185, of the Quran states:
The month of Ramadan is that in which was revealed the Quran; a guidance for mankind, and clear proofs of the guidance, and the criterion (of right and wrong). And whosoever of you is present, let him fast the month, and whosoever of you is sick or on a journey, a number of other days. Allah desires for you ease; He desires not hardship for you; and that you should complete the period, and that you should magnify Allah for having guided you, and that perhaps you may be thankful. [Quran 2:185]. 

https://www.soundvision.com/article/a-ramadan-fact-sheet-for-teachers