Saturday, November 5, 2016

The New Normal - Casablanca Transportation Trials, Tribulations, Triumphs and Tragedies

We arrived in Africa on a plane, but since that flight our transportation experience has been very different from what we are used to.  In the States, we simply hopped into one of our cars whenever we felt like going somewhere.  However, here in Morocco, Richard and I have elected not to buy a car (yet). 


Part of the reason for this decision is that the driving is somewhat treacherous in the city and is quite different from in the U.S.  Drivers here can seem aggressive, white lines are meaningless, cars make turns three or more vehicles wide, and vehicles race through intersections, continuously cutting each other off.  Mopeds and bicycles have the right of way, so car drivers have to be very vigilant not to hit one coming from any direction.  It's also hard to figure out where you are, because street signs are a rarity, and it can be hard to find a parking space.


The other reason we decided not to get a car is that other forms of transportation are available, but this can be challenging as well. Navigating the city definitely is part of the adventure of living in Casablanca.


Whenever possible we use our feet to get around locally. Richard walks to grocery stores, veggie stands, hanuts (small grocery stores), the pharmacy, etc. almost every day.  When we walk, we have to be super careful crossing the street, as pedestrians do not have the right of way.  Plus, most of the sidewalks are in rough shape, so watching where you are going is essential (no texting while walking!)  But, it's good exercise and gets the job done.

Richard's dusty feet
When it's too far to travel by foot, we take the petite/red taxis. These are available within the city, and we can get lots of places in them, like the beach, the malls, church, etc.  Meters are supposed to be required by law, and most local cabs use them.  But, on occasion we find some that don't use them. This happens more often when we are in a different city, but we have experienced it in Casa as well.  It is essential that you and the driver agree upon a fare before getting into a non-metered cab.  We find that usually non-metered taxis are a rip-off, and chose to walk until we can find one with the meter on.  


Yep, the potholes are that big!
Once in the cab, the driver often stops and adds other people to the route. Additional passengers only get in if they are going the same basic direction as the original passengers. This allows the drivers to make more money, so it's no big deal.   You also need to make sure you have small bills or change with you, as the drivers cannot/will not change larger bills. Riding the petite cabs is a great way to get around the city.


Casa Petite Taxi
When we need to go a little further outside of town, it is necessary to take a petite taxi to a grand taxi stand.  From there, six people squeeze into one white cab to get further to the outskirts of town (like GWA) and beyond.  If you want less people in your seat, you have to pay for the invisible passengers.  When the taxi is full, it is a tight squeeze, but it gets you where you need to go.

White "Grand" Taxi
We have noticed that when we travel to other cities, the color of the petite taxis change.  In Rabat they are blue, in Ifrane green, in Tangier teal with a yellow stripe, and in Marrakesh they are yellow/cream colored.  I'm not sure the reason for the color choice of each city.


Blue cabs in Rabat
Yellow Cabs in Marrakesh
Green Cabs in Ifrane (I haven't been there yet; Richard took this photo.)



Teal with a yellow stripe in Tangier

Locally, we have also used the tram, which we find to be comfortable, clean, and fast, once you get on it. Unfortunately, it has its own issues.  For example, it's a pain to put trips on your card as the machine doesn't take credit cards, so you have to have coins.  Even if you have enough coins, half of them fall through the machine.  While hassling to get a ticket, the tram comes and goes.  Also, the closest tram station to our apartment is about a 20 minute walk.  So, between the walk and the money hassles, it's usually easier just to take a red cab. 

Waiting at the tram station
The Tram
I tell anyone who will listen that I want to get a moped.  But, alas, most people think it would be too dangerous for me.  I have seen mopeds and motorcycles with entire families on them; kids, babies, old ladies, the whole family, and some even pull carts.  They weave in and out of traffic, and to me it looks like fun.  To my husband, it just looks dangerous, and I think he'd buy a car before letting me ride a moped! 

Mopeds leaned up against entrance to GWA
Moped on our street

Motorcycle with cart


Motorbike parking?

I've also considered getting a bicycle.  You see them some on the streets, some very nice but most are very old.  





Here's a really nice bike coming down our street
When we travel to other cities, we take the train.  I really like this mode of travel; it's comfortable and I really enjoy looking at the changing scenery as we go.  The first-class compartment seats six, just like the train to Hogwarts!  You can even buy snacks.  

Moslty, the trains run on time and without incident.  However, our trip back from Tangier to Casa in October took 12 hours (should have been around 4.)  Our first train broke down, we waited for repairs that never happened, then we unloaded our bags and switched trains, next the second train had to stop because another train had broken down on the tracks ahead of us.  We waited for that train to be moved, and finally made it back at 9:30PM.  Whew!


Casa Voyageurs Station
View of track and rear of train to Marrakesh
Inside of the second class section; fine for shorter rides
One of the trains
I probably will never ride the local city bus.  But, there will likely be a longer distance bus in our future for travel to cities that can't be accessed by train.  

There are also a number of "yellow" transport buses around Casa, most having a company logo.  The GWA buses are similar looking.


Transport bus


City Bus


City Bus

I rode the GWA bus for a few months to get to school.  Now I am lucky enough to carpool with a colleague.  It's nice not to have to get up quite so early, but riding the school bus isn't too bad.

The lovely ladies at the Bloom bus stop; shot taken by Richard from our apartment
GWA Bus
All this being said, I think I could get used to driving in Morocco, despite the potholes and lack of rules.  Most cars are standards, and I enjoy driving a stick.  You do see all kinds of vehicles on the road around here, but if I get one it's going to be a Hummer.  The one below looks about the right size.  I could taxi all my friends around and really travel in style.  No other cars would dare mess with me and I'll bet it's even air-conditioned.  Hmm - it might be kind of hard to park, but I can live with that!





The Casa roads are known for potholes.  



What do you think about driving 4 cars wide?  NASCAR has nothing on Casablanca!

A great link to find out about Casablanca transportation:
https://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Africa/Morocco/Wilaya_de_Casablanca/Casablanca-2116706/Transportation-Casablanca-TG-C-1.html

Addendum:
We bought a car in May of 2017.  But, Richard is the sole driver as I still don't have the courage to brave Casa traffic.  Meet "Sparky", our Chevy Spark.


My name is Sparky . . . small, good on gas, and easy to park

1 comment:

  1. finally read this blog.await your sunday call.love pap.

    ReplyDelete